Beyond Vermont: Travel Guides

A Vermonter Abroad: Travel Tips for Greece

We recently returned from the best trip of our lives… and our first trip together abroad. It’s apropos that it was our honeymoon and to Greece and the Greek Islands! The Sunday after we were married at Hotel VT in Burlington, Vermont, we drove to Boston with my sister and brother-in-law before our flight out on Monday morning. Flying from BOS to JFK to ATH instead of from Vermont saved us a significant amount of money – the amount we ended up spending while in country. So, it was definitely worth the inconvenience in this case. The direct flight from New York to Athens was definitely worth every penny for the efficiency in getting to our destination, especially when jet lagged and recuperating from wedding festivities.

Since returning, we’ve had a number of people be in touch wondering about our itinerary, how we explored the Greek islands, and other Greece travel tips. Given my commitment to traveling more around the world, I decided to launch the “A Vermonter Abroad” series, with this first post with travel tips for Greece, Greek honeymoon ideas, and our best Greece itinerary for your next trip to Greece.

Have you been to Greece? Where did you go and what were the highlights of your trip? Comment below to keep the conversation going! 

Travel Tips for Greece: Greece Itinerary

1 Night in Boston: Delta Flight from Boston to New York to Athens

2 Nights in Athens: Met 34 (Travel by Plane to Santorini)

3 Nights in Santorini: The Vasilicos (Travel by SeaJets World Champion Jet Ferry to Naxos)

3 Nights in Naxos: Boutique Hotel Glaros, Nissaki Beach Hotel, Antony Suites & Residences (Travel by Plane to Athens)

1 Night in Athens: Sofitel Athens Airport

1 Night in Boston: Before Driving Home to Vermont

Honeymoon Trip to Greece: Getting to Athens

We took a 5PM Delta flight from New York to Athens and arrived early in the morning in Athens. Customs was relatively painless once we figured out which line to pass through in the Athens airport. Within half hour or so, we were on our way to find a taxi waiting for us. Our hotel in Athens, Met 34, arranged for a taxi to be waiting with a sign for us. The flat fee was 40 euro to take us to our hotel in Athens. Having been up the whole night, it was refreshing to not have to navigate a taxi system in a new country. Our driver told us he had been married for 30 years and bestowed all kinds of wedding blessings on him. Not realizing tipping taxi drivers wasn’t a thing in Greece, I gave him 50 euro and told him to keep the change. He nearly hugged me. Little did I know you pay what the meter says in Greece – no more.

After a 40-minute or so drive, we checked in at Met 34 and was told it would be an hour before our room was ready. The hotel, which was a small boutique hotel near the Plaka and Syntagma Square in Athens, was centrally located and very modern. We headed out to explore the Plaka and some shops, on the mission to find a beer to try to kick out jet lag. My first purchase was a straw hat from a shop on the Plaka – minutes after arriving in Greece. The sun is so intense that I ended up living in that hat for the rest of our time in Greece. Nick bought a fedora as well – definitely a must-have purchase for vacationing in Greece.

We eventually settled into a beer bar and sampled a few of the hard-to-find craft beers in Athens. We realized right away how unique and friendly of a city Athens is. Athens is highly walkable, bustling with energy, and a mix of modern and mythological. After a few beers, we headed back to Met 34, checked in officially, and enjoyed two shots of grappa, some olives and some cheese dip complimentary as a welcome. Throughout our Greek travels, we learned it is quite customary to receive a local spirit as a welcome or a parting gesture – a kind touch we really enjoyed.

Exploring Athens, Greece

After a much needed nap to fight off jet lag, we got up just in time for a late dinner and went to Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (translated to the Grasshopper and the Ant) just around the corner from our hotel in Athen’s Syntagma Square. Welcome shots of ouzo and a salad later, we were feeling more like ourselves. Nick enjoyed a local beer and some kebabs. I had a glass of rosé and a seafood rice dish, while we made plans to make the most of our two days in Athens. We decided to head the next morning to the Acropolis early, followed by the Acropolis Museum, Hadrian’s Arch and another stroll through the Plaka and Syntagma Square. Met 34 delivered breakfast to our room (a basket of baked goods, Greek yogurt, meat and cheese, etc.). With full bellies, we were fueled up for a day of exploring on foot. I only wished I had brought my FitBit to see just how many miles around Athens we walked – taking in as much as possible.

Athens Sights to See

We were unprepared for how steep the climb up to the Acropolis was (even just getting to the ticket area) and soon realized steep staircases and walkways are the norm in Greece. When we finally got into the Acropolis, I couldn’t believe the views and the awe I felt. I was an art history major in college. Therefore, taking in the Acropolis and Parthenon in person was truly a bucket list item for me. The views of the city from so high up were stunning. If I were to go again, I would have gone later in the day or evening early evening to avoid the onslaught of tourists.

Although still magical, the Acropolis was very crowded around 10am. I could imagine the experience to be quite special with fewer people on the grounds. We also wish we could have seen the Acropolis lit up in the evenings. For our next visit, we’ll plan a rooftop dinner or drink with views of the Acropolis.

After the heat during our visit to the Acropolis, we were excited to duck into the air-conditioned Acropolis Museum to explore their unique collections. The building itself is beautiful with a stunning view of the Acropolis. The exhibits encompassed so much Greek history, we were excited to learn more about. Afterwards, we continued exploring the city on foot, making our way to Hadrian’s Arch and the ruined Temple of Olympian Zeus. Within the Temple, there were very few tourists. Nick and I enjoyed a leisurely stroll, taking in the sheer height and impressive remaining structure of the temple columns. We were truly up close and personal with them to appreciate the nuances of their design and construction.

Craft Beer in Athens

One of the highlights to our stay in Athens was the visit to Strange Brew, outside of the city center a bit. We had heard about the brewery from another Vermonter who had just visited Athens a few weeks before us. She said their IPA was on par with something we could find in Vermont. Sold! We taxied to the location and found a variety of unique beer on draught.

After sampling a few, we started talking to two of the brewers. They explained to us that they are quite limited by Greek laws as to the type of beers they can make. For instance, they can’t ferment with any fruit – solely malt, water, hops and yeast as ingredients in the beer. We also learned about the struggle in getting fresh hops given the heat in the summer.

Nick and I ended up staying for four hours or so, trying their beers (and special bottles they opened), sharing with them about Vermont beer (they knew and loved Focal Banger and Heady Topper), and the trials and tribulations they are facing while trying to advance the craft beer culture in Greece. We loved talking shop with them (brewer to brewer for Nick) and trying their exceptional beers. Their Jasmine IPA was as good as many of the best hoppy beers in Vermont. We even brought a bottle back with us to share with our beer friends locally in Vermont.

Traveling to Santorini, Greece from Athens

The next morning, sights seen, Greek meals enjoyed, and having found the best craft beer in Athens, we were ready for our 5am taxi to drive us to the Athens airport. We were both impressed with how efficient and modern the Athens airport was. We moved through quickly, loaded into a bus that took us to our plane, had a quick 35-minute flight, and landed in Santorini before breakfast time. Nick and I had pre-arranged travel with the hotel where we were staying, so once again, we had someone waiting for us to take us to our next destination. This is one aspect of the Greek hospitality we really came to enjoy. Everyone takes such good care of visitors. Greeks feel such pride that their home is a destination, and one of the most stunning places in the world to visit. [As an aside, it made me feel a similar pride for where we live in Vermont and how folks from around the country come to us for our peak foliage season, local products, and way of life.]

Arriving at The Vasilicos – Santorini, Greece

Arriving at the Vasilicos, located between Thira and Imerovigli, was the most magical few minutes of our entire trip – on par with seeing the Acropolis for the first time. Our transport van pulled up a one-way road with a white monastery at the top of it. He stopped and unloaded our bags. For a second, I thought we were in the wrong place. Then, Fiorella, who was the concierge at the hotel, greeted us. Fiorella and I had exchanged a few emails ahead of our arrival. She asked about what kind of pillows we wanted (“not a detail at all”) and what temperature we preferred our room to be. She also arranged a catamaran tour for us, which ended up being a highlight of our time in Greece.

Our bags were swept away. Then we walked through wrought-iron gates into The Vasilicos, our home for the next three nights. My breath was taken away. Up high on the cliff, The Vasilicos had unobstructed 180-degree views of the Aeagean Sea. There was such quiet and peacefulness right away that I couldn’t help but smirk by the fact that we found this magical place. They served us breakfast (fresh orange juice, cappuccinos, Greek yogurt, honey, marmalade, croissants, breadsticks, bruschetta, meat and cheese and poached pairs) to welcome us after our early morning and flight.

Vasilicos CruiseThe Vasilicos

After a few hours lounging by the communal pool, our suite, Pergola, was ready for us. We walked into the Cycladian cave-like room with a massive walk-in dressing room and open shower. The simple elegance was something I hadn’t experienced at a hotel before. High-end, yet unpretentious, the room was entirely inviting. Crisp white linens, with the most comfortable Coco-Mat bed we stayed on in Greece. It was heavenly.

What was even more impressive was our outdoor space. Given I know Nick well, I knew he’d prefer a private terrace and plunge pool over shared space. Privacy, during a honeymoon after all, is important! I read in our chase lounge chairs for a few hours, while Nick napped, followed by a dip in the pool. For hours, I took in the amazing views below. No phone, no conversation. I could watch the landscape below us for hours. Time seemed to pass so quickly just being present in the moment.

We decided on room service (one of the best Greek salads of our trip, kritharoto with shrimp, and a homemade pesto pasta with shrimp). A few beers later, and we took in one of the most epic sunsets of our trip, knowing we were exactly where we needed to be.

During our time at The Vasilicos, we both agreed it’s a special place unlike any others. The views are unobstructed. The staff is so friendly and accommodating. The privacy and romance was unmatched. We loved breakfasts on our own terrace at our leisure. Homemade ice cream in the afternoons. Wine for the sunset “to add to the romance”. We are already planning our next visit back for our one-year anniversary. I really couldn’t imagine at better place to stay in one of the most beautiful places in the worl

Catamaran ViewActivities in Santorini

The majority of our time spent in Santorini was in our plunge pool or enjoying our terrace. Days went by so quickly. I was so present, watching boats come and go. Wondering what islands were which in the distance. We drank wine, beer, and Negronis by the pool, talking about our adventures and our future. We did leave on our second day for a walk to Imerovigli, one of the two towns between which The Vasilicos is sandwiches.

We wandered the narrow streets and staircases, took in views of Skaros Rock, and blue-domed churches. Due to the heat mid-day, I was ready to get back to the pool to relax with a cocktail. Relaxing isn’t normally my style, but The Vasilicos showed me how much being present and in the moment (sans phone or computer) can truly provide respite and recovery.

A Catamaran Tour in Santorini

We did book a five-hour catamaran tour, which was a highlight of our trip. The company, Spiradakos Sailing Cruises, picked us up at our hotel and transported us to another end of the island where we boarded a catamaran for a mid-say sail with 14 or so other folks from around the world. Once sailing, we enjoyed many glasses of local white wine, before learning about the history of Santorini, surrounding islands, and the volcano. We pulled into a cove to swim in volcanic hot springs – a highlight of the trip for sure.

Then we cruised to another stop where we jumped off of the catamaran into the salty ocean to snorkel. The gracious staff made us a delicious Greek lunch, consisting of Greek salad, dolmas, souvlaki and pasta, the perfect fuel for an afternoon at sea. We also made stops at White Beach and Red Beach for more swimming. The Mediterranean Sea is simply stunning, and I couldn’t imagine a better way to see the island from the sea. We both thought it was awesome value for 190 euro for us both, for five-hours at sea, with endless glasses of wine, four staff members for the 15 passengers onboard, and a delicious, traditional Greek lunch.

Tour De Force: Wine & Food Pairing at The Vasilicos

After our day on the catamaran, we opted for a wine and dinner pairing at The Vasilicos. Before we left, Fiorella grabbed us to finalize our customized menu. The chef cooked specifically for us two. We had our own private server in our own private space in reception with many candles throughout the room and a peek-a-boo window letting in hints of the sunset. Hands down, this was the best meal of our lives. We started with a chopped Greek salad with feta mousse, followed by traditional Moussaka.

Then we enjoyed a sous-vide and grilled octopus dish, one of the most flavorful bites of our lives. The wines were from varied regions of Greece, each with a description of their history and tasting notes. For our main dishes, we had a local ribeye with sweet potatoes (garnished with chocolate), and a local fish stew with lemongrass. Both dishes were exceptional. For dessert, we shared fresh baklava and caramel ice cream. The whole meal – the ambiance, the wine, the server, the romance – was perfect in every way.

Traveling from Santorini to Naxos: Sea Jets Ferry

We opted to take the ferry from Santorini to Naxos. The ferry ride was only an hour and 20 minutes and the cost was about a third of a the airfare. A shuttle picked us up at The Vasilicos, and we went down a windy road to the port. Nick and I both chuckled that although the road was full of switchbacks, there were full-size tour buses cruising up and down the road on the side of the mountain. Nick said these bus drivers wouldn’t get stuck going through the Notch in Vermont!

We had to pick up our tickets from Sea Jets in downtown Thira the day before our ferry, which wasn’t the most convenient. Lucky for us, Fiorella suggested we ask the driver from the catamaran company to swing by – and he did graciously – saving us a 30-40 minute, up-hill walk back to The Vasilicos from downtown Thira. Once we arrived in the port, we saw ferries pulling in, docking for 10 minutes, and pulling out. A server from a local restaurant looked at our ticket, told us exactly when our ferry would be there to board, and we settled in for a Yellow Donkey beer before getting on board.

I had heard ferries can be a bit chaotic, and they were – especially the one we boarded. There’s a mad dash to get onboard and stow your luggage in a luggage rack. They only check your ticket as you attempt to make it up to the main level of the boat, where you can find a seat – much like in an airplane. Although we had purchased upgraded seats to ensure we had a seat, there was just a section where we could choose any seat. It wasn’t crowded, and the seats were spacious and comfortable. There were also concessions available – fresh choice, pastries, beer and wine, etc. All-in-all, it was an enjoyable experience while onboard. They called for Naxos, our first stop, and we were off at the port in Naxos with a taxi waiting for us. The ferry ended up being much easier travel (and much more enjoyable) than I originally thought it would be.

Exploring Naxos

When we were planning our trip, I had read that some of the lesser known islands, like Naxos, Paros, and Ios, make good stops for a more authentic Greek island experience. Everyone we encountered in Greece assumed we were going to Santorini and Mykonos. So I was glad we could experience one of the largest islands that’s the least touristy. In retrospect, we could have spent two nights in Naxos, since we didn’t “hire a car” to explore more of the island. We were solely on foot, and loved exploring Naxos Town and the Old Town. We hiked up to the Temple of Apollo at the gateway of the town for beautiful views. We visited Kastro, the castle in Naxos, toured the Archeological Museum, and got happily lost in the labyrinth of the city.

What Surprised Me About Greece

  • Before flying to Greece, I didn’t really think much about the geography. Macedonia is to the north. Egypt is across the Sea to the south. Greece, particularly Athens, was an interesting mix of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and European. The architecture was definitely beautiful and unique from any European city I had previously visited.
  • I had heard about the stray animal problems in Greece. But, I wasn’t expecting the sheer number of stray dogs and cats we came into contact with. The large majority of them just minded their own business. A pair of dogs just walked past us our first night in Athens. A few cats begged for food. What I didn’t realize was these animals are largely community pets. They are fed by locals. Locals love on them. The Greek government actually puts collars on them that store their medical information. Therefore, when they are taken in for treatment or a check-up, there’s information on the animal readily available.
  • The wind! I was prepared for the sun (a straw hat and sunglasses are a must). I had packed a number of cute dresses. But it was much too windy during our stay for them. I lived in linen shorts and cotton t-shirts and tanks for the majority of our travels.
  • I knew Greece was all about wine and ouzo, but I didn’t realize how few breweries there actually are. This is due to restrictions on the type of beers brewers can make in Greece. We tried a lot of lagers and pilsners. The IPAs were tried (all except Strange Brew’s Jasmine IPA) were heavily malty. Santorini Blonde Ale from Volcan was a favorite and readily available throughout our travels in Greece.

Travel Tips for Getting to Greece

  • The travel is long. From JFK to ATH, the flight was nine hours. On the return, it was 10 and a half hours. I didn’t think to download a Netflix series (The Crown) until the morning before our flight home. Given the lack of strong Internet, I was only able to download three episodes. The flight would have been much more enjoyable if I could have gotten into the zone and watched a whole series.
  • Our flight on Delta offered complimentary alcohol. On the way to Greece, we didn’t imbibe. But on the way home, we enjoyed a few drinks. On such a long flight, it definitely took the edge off a bit.
  • The ferries and smaller airports in Greece aren’t always terribly reliable. I was happy we flew back to Athens the day before our flight home, just to be on the safe side. We stayed at the awesome Sofitel Athens Airport (my first five-star hotel and it didn’t disappoint). It’s literally a two-minute walk from Arrivals and Departures at the airport. The rooms have black-out featured and sound barriers, so you would never know you were a quick walk from the runway. We enjoyed an awesome, huge Greek buffet for dinner (30 euro per person but worth it) that tide us over until our flight the next day. Being so close to the airport, also allowed us to get more sleep before the long journey home.
  • Greece is not the most friendly location for those with mobility issues. Like any ancient or historic city, many of the alleys and walkways are steep, uneven staircases or steep ascends. There are few railings. Even the major attractions like the Acropolis require good footing and a close eye on where you are walking.

The Weather in Greece

  • It is hot in Greece during their main tourist season from May through September. The sun is very strong. Most days there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Wear sunscreen. Bring (or purchase) a straw hat. Bring polarized sunglasses. I bought a stray hat on the Plaka in Athens not 30 minutes after we arrived. I lived in it for the next 10 days.
  • Santorini especially was quite windy. Our hotel had a number of rocks to hold things down, so it seemed like a frequent occurrence. Skirts and dresses, however cute, weren’t very practical for our travels.
  • The sun is intense. Most days there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. We wore SPF 50 most days, even when we were just walking around town, and still came home with some strong color.

Frequently Asked Questions about Traveling in Greece

Did most people in Greece speak English? Yes! Everyone spoke English, and very good English, who we came in contact with. One girl who gave me a manicure at one of our hotels spoke the least English, but she was very gracious and knew enough for us to interact. I actually wish I had the opportunity to learn a bit of Greek while we were there.

Did you get sea sick on the ferry? Nope! It was super smooth, actually, and the sea definitely wasn’t flat when we were on it. I could imagine if it was really rough, Dramamine might be a good idea.

How early did you need to get to airports for flights? We were told by locals an hour and a half for the Athens airport (although they would only leave an hour) and an hour and 15 minutes for the smaller airports. In Naxos, we could have easily arrives 45 minutes in advance and been fine. The airport was tiny and security/boarding took all of five minutes.

How early did you need to get to the ferry? The ferry operator, when we picked up our tickets (yes, that’s a thing – there aren’t electronic copies of your ticket unless you book with a travel agent), told us to be there an hour in advance.

Is there Uber in Greece? No, there is not. Taxis were pretty easy to hail. Any hotel is happy to call and arrange transportation for you as well. All taxis were very modern and clean – many were Mercedes.

More Frequently Asked Questions about Traveling in Greece

Do you tip in Greece? Greece doesn’t really have a tipping culture. What is on the meter in a taxi is what you pay. For meals, you are encouraged to round up and leave a euro or two. At all of the hotels where we stayed, they carried our luggage – not for the sake of a tip, but because they enjoy doing it. The only person we really ended up tipping was our catamaran transport driver, who made an extra stop, so we could pick up our ferry tickets. Even then, he really didn’t expect anything.

Did you see any stray animals? Yes, they are quite common in Athens. We saw the most stray cats in Naxos. One night we saw a woman feeding them and about 12 cats were around her. We had one stray cat come and join us for breakfast in The Vasilicos and finished our Greek yogurt. Many strays hang around the monuments and sights to see, but are typically napping in the shade. They typically mind their own business. Locals setup water dishes and food bowls around the city, and it’s common to see dog or cat food in a handful on the sidewalk as well. We didn’t see any aggression from any of them. They just come and go and occasionally beg for food.

How late did you eat in Greece? We typically ate dinner around 7:30pm or 8:00pm, but largely so we could catch the sunsets, which were stellar. Most of the restaurants we went to, with an exception of Oasis in Naxos, was nearly empty that early. Many bars and restaurants stay open until early in the morning (4am or 6am!).

What was the best coffee you had? We loved Nescafe frappes! They are iced and really creamy, yet pack a punch.

What was the best beer you had? We liked Yellow Donkey, a pale ale, and Santorini Blonde from Volcan the best for easy-to-find beers. Otherwise, it was Jasmine IPA from Strange Brews in Athens – so good!

What else did you try to drink? We actually drank quite a bit of wine, which is unusual for us, because Nick isn’t a huge fan typically. We also tried a variety of other spirits – grappa, ouzo, raki, kitron, mastic, and banana liqueur. All of those are made locally in varied parts of Greece.