Beyond Vermont: Travel Guides

A Vermonter’s Travel Guide to Charleston

If I ever leave Vermont, I’m heading to Charleston. I rarely find a place during our travels that feels as home to me as Vermont does. And, even more rarely, do I ever fathom the thought of living someone other than the Green Mountain State. But, recently, I put it on my bucket list to have a second home on the beach or river in South Carolina, close to Charleston. I love it that much. Every year, we make a trip to Charleston and explore like a local. I’ve put together my favorite hotels, restaurants, day-trip, attractions, and scenic walks around the simply idyllic town, chock full of southern charm in this Vermonter’s Travel Guide to Charleston.

Visiting Charleston, South Carolina

I’ve been fortunate enough to take a work trip to Charleston for the past three years. We can’t wait to head back again in late March for our fourth visit in four years. Growing up, it was always on my family’s list to visit. But we never made it. So, when I had my first opportunity to visit four years ago now, I had restaurants lined up to visit. I was ready to soak up the Southern lifestyle: the people, the places, and hospitality. Then, Hurricane Matthew hit 12 arrives after I arrived. My conference was cancelled. Mandatory evacuations were ordered. Oh, and all flights back to Vermont were cancelled. To say the least, my love story with Charleston started off a bit rocky.

Fortunately, a reader of this blog and a member of the wonderful beer community around the country, offered me a ride to Greensboro, South Carolina the next day. I was out of harm’s way and able to get a one-way flight back to Burlington, Vermont.  The night before my evacuation, I got a glimpse of locals’ life in Charleston. The bars lining King Street were empty of tourists. Locals were talking about stocking up on wine for a day of power outages and games. Bartenders said they never evacuate; in fact, one, shared he was going to go fishing. Even with a sour taste left in my mouth for my quick visit to Charleston, I couldn’t wait to get back.

A Romantic Getaway in Charleston

This past year, I brought along my now fiance and we extended our trip. We rented the cutest AirBnb on Society Street with a private patio, next to a chocolatier, and explored like a local. Lucky for me, I have a huge network in Charleston, so we mapped out of all our insiders’ recommendations before we headed out of time. We carefully planned every meal and excursion. We had a romantic, epic vacation… even when our flight was cancelled due to a fluke snow storm in JFK causing us to stay another day (twist my arm!). We ended up splurging for a night at the stunning Dewberry Hotel. It was one of my favorite hotel stays anywhere, ever! We noshed on a mid-day charcuterie bo

ard and cocktails. I soaked in a deep cast-iron tub. We had one of those travel days that remains so picture-perfect in your mind.


Where to Stay in Charleston

Over the years, I’ve explore a variety of lodging options in Charleston. I’ve stayed off of King Street at the big name hotels (The Hyatt Place Charleston/Historic District, the Courtyard Charleston Historic District, the Holiday Inn Charleston Historic Downtown). And, let me tell you… if you’re in Charleston, the epicenter of Southern charm, stay somewhere unique and memorable. If I hadn’t been traveling on business for my first two visits, I would have selected something like Zero George Street, John Rutledge House Inn, or the Spectator Hotel. I l

ove the Dewberry, where we stayed last year, but we most often frequent AirBnbs for the cost-savings and local feel they provide.


Dining in Charleston

Where do I even begin on the myriad dining options in Charleston… There are so many outstanding options that you really can’t go wrong. Of course, seafoo

d needs to be on your menu. Oh, and barbecue too. And you really can’t miss happy hours – for drinks and small-plate specials. If you’ve researched the restaurant scene in Charleston, you likely have heard of the local institution of Halls Chophouse and always popular FIG and Husk Restaurant. If you can’t get reservations (like I have never been able to, don’t worry). There are so many delicious restaurant options in Charleston… Here are just a few of my top choices for dining in Charleston – from pimiento stuffed cheese balls to smoked oysters to

Breakfast in Charleston:

Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit: With locations in the City Market and on Upper King Street, getting a grab-and-go biscuit from Callie’s is a must. The sausage, egg, and pimento cheese is a winner, along with the cinnamon biscuit with whipped butter and homemade jam.

Christophe Artisan Chocolatier: Just a few steps off of King Street, Christophe’s pastries are to-die-for. Don’t miss the drinking chocolate and ensure you grab some macarons for later in the day.


Seafood Dinners in Charleston:

The Darling Oyster Bar – Such a cool location with great cocktails and a variety of oyster on the half shell. [As an aside, I once saw a woman choke here – like full-blown choking – and a member of the waitstaff gave her the hemlich impressively.}

The Ordinary – Don’t miss the smoked oysters and the daily fish fry. The restaurant also specializes in rum, so ensure you try a variety of their inventive cocktails.


Barbecue Dinners in Charleston:

Lewis Barbecue – Lewis is an Uber drive from downtown but worth it. The brisket and beef short ribs are outstanding, but what really got me were the

Texas Hot Guts and the side of Green Chile Corn Pudding. Outstanding.

Swig & Swing – Burnt ends, brisket, smoked pork belly. Need I say more? Pork Rinds with Tabasco Honey and Blue Cheese, as a starter.

Home Team BBQ – All about being fresh and local, Home Team is a great option for BBQ with locations in Charleston and on Sullivan’s Island. Baked Queso, Pork Cracklins and a Half Rack anyone?


Southern Fare Dinners in Charleston:

Magnolia’s – What a special place, perfect for a romantic dinner. Charleston Crab Cakes, Fried Mac & Cheese, Boiled Peanut Hummus, Blue Crab Bisque. The Shellfish Over Grits are a must for an entree. Magnolia’s offers the perfect balance of Southern fare and seafood.

The Macintosh – Grab a seat at the bar and belly up for a dirty martini with homemade bacon-pimento cheese-stuffed olives. The Mac has great happy hour specials and small plates for sharing at the bar.

Rarebit -The food might not be quite as good as the famed Moscow Mules, but you’ll find southern favorites like Chicken-Fried Steak (mashed and green beans), Fried Catfish, Chicken and Waffles, and a Blue Plate Special. On a regular basis, we talk about how good their Mules a

re (and they are on draft!)


Other Dining Options in Charleston:

Poe’s Tavern – Poe’s is actually located on Sullivan’s Island (a 20-minute Uber from Charleston), but it’s the epitome of a locals’ joint. Sit at the outside bar and have fun trying to decide which burger to order. Psst, the Gold Bug Plus and Annabel Lee are outstanding.

Edmund’s Oast – One of the best breweries in Charleston, Edmund’s Oast also has a stellar restaurant. I still crave the Chicken Liver Parfait and Hanger Steak.

Henrietta’s at the Dewberry – If you’re staying at the Dewberry and don’t want to live, Henriett’s, a small French-inspired bistro, has delicious fare and drinks. Their Charcuterie Board was the best I’ve ever had.

Indaco – Craving Italian? Indaco on lower King Street is where you need to head. From antipasti like Blistered Shishitos and Charred Octopus to Black Pepper Tagliatelle and the Corn or Clam Pizza, it’s the perfect Italian meal in the south.

Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream – To satisfy our sweet tooth, don’t miss Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream (with homemade waffle cones) on King Street.